|The Slide Stop
Lever (SSL) is a relatively unassuming part in a Glock, especially if
you shoot IPSC, since one hopes to actually never use it. However,
there are a few things you need to do to it to make your pistol run
better, especially if you intend to use a Trigger
Pin Bushing. (Click any image to see a larger version.)
Above is a stock Slide Stop Lever.
Note that the spring is misaligned with respect to the lever's long
axis. This misalignment can/does cause additional drag in the
Using various tools, mostly a good set of
needle nose pliers, I tweaked the spring to align with the long axis of
the lever. Now the spring won't touch any other part. It's
important that you make sure to make sure it stays aligned as installed
under the locking block pin. You can move it around on the pin
with a small screw driver. Alternatively, you can insure that it stays
in the right place by machining a shallow groove in the locking block
pin. If you do so, remember to depress the spring slightly when
removing the locking block pin.
Here's something else that needs
attention. Most Slide Stop Lever springs will actually touch the step on
the left side of the trigger as installed. using the same tools,
you can tweak the spring diameter in this area so that it does not touch
the trigger when installed.
As you can see in the above image, I
reduced the spring radius, but also relieved the step some as well to
insure that there was plenty of clearance. As a side note...
If you reduce the spring radius here, you may/will need to open it up
further out on the spring to maintain the same spring tension. You
need to maintain enough tension to insure that you won't get an
inadvertent application of the slide stop lever due to
Note the large indicated gap in the image
above. This gap in conjunction with a large trigger pin to trigger
pin through-hole clearance is responsible for lateral trigger
displacement and deflection, both of which contribute drag and
inconsistency to your trigger pull. See my Trigger
Pin Bushing article for a fix to this.
As referenced in that article, one more
thing needs to be done to modify your Slide Stop Lever. The hole
in the SSL is punched in by machine. This causes a deformation in the
metal, effectively increasing the SSL's thickness AND reducing the
overall bearing surface on its faces. Using a good stone, you
should stone and then polish both faces of the SSL adjacent to the hole
to REDUCE its thickness and INCREASE the bearing surface. Combined
with a properly tuned Trigger pin Bushing, you'll have a much smoother
and more consistent trigger pull from cycle to cycle.